Applewood

What an amazing transformation the space at 501 11th Street has undergone! Formerly a struggling open-mike bar showcasing dangerously off-key singers, it is now a charming restaurant that manages to be both sophisticated and cozy at the same time. Just a bit off of Park Slope's 7th Avenue, Applewood embodies all of brownstone Brooklyn's charm while providing a wonderful dining experience.

Various pumpkins decorate the entrance and a real fireplace warms up the room. As you enter, you will see wooden shelves featuring jars of homemade spicy peach jam and tomato basil sauce ($5 each). (You will probably also see the affable owners holding their 10-day-old infant. So adorable is this baby that you might be distracted from the menu. But don't worry, the promise of ricotta dumplings with braised pork shoulder will soon reclaim your attention.)

My friend and I began our meal with reasonably-priced Dom Martinho red wine and sliced baguettes with three spreads: roasted garlic puree, French butter and delectable fig jam. We lingered over the bread and wine for a little while because the menu listed so many attractive options. I had a craving for root vegetables and initially wanted the rutabaga soup, but then I saw the potato and root vegetable "pave" with black peppercorn-goat cheese fondue on the entrée list. My companion was rather disappointed to find that the signature duck in applewood-smoked bacon sauce was unavailable.

As you can imagine, we solved these dilemmas in the most delicious way possible. Our shared appetizer was a light, astringent ceviche spiced up with toasted coriander seeds and drizzled with chili oil and avocado mousse. Then, deprived of the duck, my companion opted for the "tenderest ever" grass-fed lamb on a bed of creamy polenta which was encircled with dollops of black olive sauce. I received my allotment of root vegetables in the "pave", which was a kind of sliced root vegetable napoleon. Dipping the potatoes and rutabagas into the tangy goat cheese fondue was a sumptuous experience.

As the temperature drops, it's time for comfort carbohydrates, and dessert at Applewood is a great opportunity to indulge in them! My friend's flourless chocolate cake was among the best I've ever tasted; served with a side of Earl Grey ice cream and topped with real whipped cream, the cake was more like a warm souffle. Each gooey mouthful was a tidal wave of chocolate flavor. I ended up eating half of the cake, even though I had ordered the spiced hot chocolate and homemade Oreos. Once you try this hot chocolate, you will never feel the same about mulled apple cider. You may just crave hot chocolate from now on! (My friend pronounced the beverage "Christmas in a cup.") The accompanying Oreos were small but deceptively rich with a buttercream filling.

Intriguing fennel meringues completed our meal, and then we reluctantly stepped out of the dream back onto the street.

Applewood: 501 11th St., Brooklyn. (718) 768-2044